Abstract

Test methods (FAST) developed to assess the suitability of woven materials for use in tailored garments were applied to different types of lightweight ovine garment leather, where the differences were derived from processing. A 33 factorial experimental design with the kind of leather (nappa, nubuck, suede), its thickness (0.8, 0.9, 1.1 mm), and the duration of dry drumming during processing (0, 45, 120 minutes), was used to identify factors and interactions among factors likely to affect the construction and appearance of leather garments. Specimens were cut from different locations and orientations on the skins. The location and orientation of the specimen had a more significant effect on physical properties than the processing variables. The garment leather was generally heavier, stiffer, and more extensible than woven fabrics recommended for use in tailored garments, and these properties may cause problems in garment manufacture and use. Variation of these properties was comparable to (but slightly larger than) that for batches of suiting textiles.