Abstract

The Leather Working Group (LWG) has achieved considerable improvements in tannery environmental performance through its Audit Protocol. Version 5 of the Protocol will be valid from October 2010. The Audit aims to promote sustainable and appropriate environmental business practices in the leather industry which is very important for the future of leather. However there is a need to now reconsider several aspects of the Audit including Restricted Substances Lists, the salinity of effluents, and the real environmental effects of chrome compared to other tannages. The processing of green hides, direct chrome liquor recycling and beneficial irrigation of effluent should be suitably rewarded in the next version of the Audit Protocol. In Version 5 the requirements for treated effluent discharge to both inshore and coastal waters are the same: the Audit does not require salinity or Total Solids to be assessed for effluent discharge to rivers or lakes. This is not environmentally sound and should be changed. With appropriate changes the LWGA udit could become the single Eco-label for leather. One of the changes would require scientifically based Restricted Substances Lists and preferably one agreed list for the Audit.